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The Whalton Baal Fire

On the Eve of St John the Baptist, commonly called Midsummer Eve, it is usual in the most country places, and also here and there in Towns and Cities for both old any young to meet together, and be merry over a large fire which is made in the open street, over this they frequently leap and play at various games such as running, wrestling dancing &c., But this is generally the exercise of the younger sort; for the old ones, for the most part, sit by as spectators, and enjoy themselves and their bottle, and thus they spend the time til midnight, and sometimes till Cock-Crow”.1

Bonfires have been an integral part of celebrations throughout Britain, for hundreds if not thousands of years, but early written evidence is scarce. 

“In 1502 the famous Italian scholar resident in England Polydor Vergil, had published De Rerum Inventoribus, an attempt to discover the origins of religion, law, science and social customs. As part of this he traced many religious and secular rites to pagan origins including Candlemas candles, feasting, New Year’s gifts, dancing, mumming, Maying, Christmas lords, Shrove Tuesday revelry, and midsummer bonfires. His purpose was not simply to instruct or entertain but to criticise and reform, pointing out that all these activities were capable of abuse, that dancing had become immoderate, and that the wearing of masks were inexcusable. The book went into thirteen more editions of the next hundred years, and supplied material for the direct and comprehensive attack upon Catholic ritual published by Thomas Becon in 1563. All of it, he suggested derived from the whims of individual Popes or from Paganism. The heathendom to which these writers referred was not the Celtic twilight beloved of nineteenth and twentieth century folklorists but that of ancient Rome, revealed in classical texts, and some of the lines of descent which they inferred seem very questionable”.6

Throughout the early part of the 17th century and especially during the time of the Interregnum, the English Puritans looked to the fathers of the Christian church for guidance on some of these ancient traditions. Statesman, William Prynne championed the words of the theologian Tertullian in his denouncement of bonfires:

“These bonfires that are kindled by certaine people on New Moones before their shops and houses, over which also the use ridiculously and foolishly by a certain ancient custom we command them to hence forth to cease” 9 

William Prynne in his own pamphlet  goes further:

the fathers, councells and fore-recited Protestant authors condeme all dinimations, morrice dances, bonefires, newyeers-gifts; the observation of newyeers day or the calends of January ” 7.

During the middle of the 19th century the tradition of these fires had all but disappeared, possibly due to a combination of industrialisation, changes in farming practice and a general move from the land to towns and cities. In 1846 The Illustrated London News published a poem “Midsummer – or St John’s Eve (As it used to be)”, with these two verses harking back to a different, if not imagined, time:

Light up the bonfires on the hills-

The altars of the sun;

Light up the fires, while city spires

Ring out their benizon.

And dance ye deftly round and round,

Each gleesome nymph and swain; 

Or through the fire-ordeal bound,

With laugh and fest amain.

Ay! Those were good and gallant times

When England’s King and Queen, 

‘Mid loud huzzas and merry chimes,

Rode to the jocund scene.

They came with all their brilliant Court,

And beauteous dames serene,

Nor scorn’d to grace the festive sport

Upon the blazing green.8

By the end of the 19th century the practice was continuing in small pockets, in areas still reliant on agriculture, or where new forms of entertainment had not usurped the older traditions. In an article for the Newcastle Courant in 1889, “The Folk-lore of Mid-Summer Eve by William Andrews wrote on the practice of lighting bonfires:

This custom, which is a remnant of the old pagan fire worship, prevailed in various parts of the country, but perhaps lingered the longest in Cornwall… some midsummer rites are still observed in Ireland, we have from an eyewitness some interesting items on the subject. People assemble and dance round the fires, the children jump through the flames, and in former times ‘coals’ [Embers] were carried through the corn field to prevent blight.. In the Isle of Man, formerly on Midsummer Eve, lighted fires to the windward side of fields so that the smoke might pass over the corn. The cattle were folded, and round the animals, carried blazing grass or furzo, as a preventative against the influence of witches”.

In Northumberland however, this ‘Baal fire’ was taking place in the village of Whalton, and its name was a source of interest for many folklorists:

 “Readers of the Old Testament are well acquainted with the condemnation passed upon the worship of Baal, but some may be surprised to know that there is a custom in Northumberland of lighting Baal fires on St John’s Eve, which is a relic of ancient Baal Worship”.5 .

On 25 November 1903, the Reverend J. Walker, Canon of Newcastle and Rector of Whalton presented to the Society of Antiquaries the only known complete account on the practices surrounding the bonfire. Canon Walker had been an active participant of the festival during his time in Whalton, and had been unable to find any written discussion of the custom. 

Firstly, he said that the material for the bonfire needed to be properly sourced, the countryside and village was scoured for anything which may be of use; fallen trees, thinnings of hedges, whin bushes, any broken fences and pieces of kinding, obtained honestly, was used.

“On the evening of the fourth of July, a cart is borrowed and loaded with branches and [sticks], some of the men get into the shafts, more are hooked on by means of long ropes, and then with a good deal of shouting and horn blowing, the lumbersome vehicle is run down into the village.” 3

ZRE4

“Two [cart] loads of [branches], as a rule, are brought into the village, [and, always pulled] by hand; no horse is ever used. Then begins the building of the bonfire, which for some unexplained reason, is always constructed on the same spot. The site does not vary a yard from year to year; and yet nobody knows why this particular place is chosen”.3

Building up the bonfire3

Then with the building up of the pile of branches and [bundles of sticks], a remarkable scene takes place, the whole village grows interested, the old men and women, young men and maidens, and the children, begin to gather in groups and watch the proceedings, impatient till, as the twilight deepens and the pile has been carefully prepared and examined, the word is given to ‘light her’. Then the children joining hands will form a moving circle round the burning pile. This is not as much observed as it was some twenty-five years ago. Still you may see the children racing round the fire with rather more formality than might be seen perhaps at an ordinary bonfire”.2

Ready For Lighting3

“Meanwhile the groups of people gather nearer the fire, and presently as the fire begins to burn and the flame mounts higher till it illuminates the whole village, a fiddle or some other instrument is heard and the young people begin to dance in the near neighbourhood of the fire. I have heard that then it was not unknown for some to leap over the fire…There is always, too, a quantity of ‘sweeties’ and ‘bullets’ scattered and scrambled for by the children”.2

ZRE4

“Old men over 80 years of age have told me that they never knew the fire omitted or the custom fail. There is a tradition that twice the fire was postponed to the next evening because of the ‘great rain’ but it was never omitted – and these old men, asserted that they had received the same story from their elders, [though] oddly enough, I have never come across a written record or printed account of the custom. There was some opposition to it within my own memory, but the fire was lighted all the same. The old thatched cottages have disappeared, more modern dwellings have been built, migration and immigration take place, but whatever the changes, this custom survived”.2

What needs to be remembered is that the photographs taken by Sir Benjamin Stone, though impressive, give a slightly inaccurate view of the festivities. These captured images took place as part of a daylight dress rehearsal, as the lighting of the bonfire and the subsequent dancing took place in the evening. 

The Canon also mentioned that although, to his knowledge, the custom did not take place anywhere else, he had been told by the late Mr Thomas Arkle of Highlaws that the tradition had taken place at Elsdon and Belsay, but not for a number of years.

ZRE4

What is remarkable about this tradition is that it still continues in a form today; Old Midsummer Eve is still marked in Whalton with a bonfire, albeit smaller, and performed in daylight, but it is a testament to the people of Whalton to to commemorate the tradition which was an important part of the folk life of the village, and to continue its now unique custom in Northumberland.

References

1 Observations on Popular Antiquaris. John Brand, 1777.

2 Archaeologia Aeliana – The Midsummer Bonfire at Whalton, Reverend J. Walker, Honourable Canon of Newcastle and Rector of Whalton, 1903.

3 Sir Benjamin Stone’s Pictures – Records of National Life and History – Festivals, Ceremonies and Customs” 1906.

4 ZRE from the uncatalogued Renwick papers – courtesy of the Renwick family.

5 The Origins of Popular Superstitions and Customs – by T. Sharper Knowlson, 1910

6 The Rise and Fall of Merry England – by Ronald Hutton, 1994

7 Histriomastix part I page 36 – William Prynne, 1633

8 The illustrated London News 27th June 1846.

9 Tertullian (circa 155-240? AD) – Canon 65.

BERWICK ADVERTISER, 25 JUNE 1920

THE BAKERS’ STRIKE

EMPLOYERS TO CARRY ON WITH IMPORTED OPERATIVES

PLENTY BREAD STILL ON SALE

Another phase of the strike of operative bakers in Berwick took place at week-end, when the employers, standing out against the £4 minimum and the 44 hour week of the Scottish Award, hardened their hearts, and left the men whose notices had expired to roll up their aprons and clear out.

Mr J. I. Cairns adopted Lord Fisher’s injunction and “sacked the lot, “bringing in their places operatives from the south of England. Other firms have carried on with their staffs who were non-union, and the men regret that there have been two backsliders from the Union ranks.

A 1950s photograph of J Cairns the bakers shop in Marygate.  In June, 1920, during the bakers’ strike, Mr Cairns adopted a hard line approach to his workforce. Ref: BRO 1250-23

Branch Secretary Huntley of the men’s organisation has started work at Tweedmouth Co-Operative Society which is paying the full Scottish Award, and has adopted the 44 hours week. Mr Thompson, baker, Bridge Street, has also granted his men the Scottish rate, and is working full time on the 44 hours basis.

A representative of the men, on being interviewed, said he hoped his colleagues would hold out, though he regretted to say there had been two backsliders. He considered the employers were very belated with their pledge to treat with the men should they become affiliated to an English Union. “It is only a shuffle,” he said. “They knew very well that we would naturally join a Scottish Union when they, the employers, were members of a Scottish master bakers’ Association. If it is legal for employers to organise under a Scottish Association from Berwick, why should the workers be told, although they are doing the same thing and becoming members of a Scottish Operatives’ Union, that they cannot be met, as Berwick is an English Borough. My belief is, “he concluded, “that had we joined an English Union, employers would still have told us they did not recognise us, because we were not members of a Scottish Union.”

A master baker interviewed, said he was managing to carry on quite well, and was determined to hold out. He reiterated the view that the Scottish Master Bakers could not recognise an English Borough coming under a Scottish award. The whole matter was being contested on principle.

Mr Morton, of Glasgow, a Union organiser, visited Berwick on Monday, and held a conference with the men on strike. He may be back in the town at the weekend.

There is, we understand, 5s difference between the regional award for England and the Scottish award. The English wage is 75s, and the Scottish 80s per week. Berwick, situated as it is, gives more trouble to Master Organisations and Trade Unions than any other borough in the Kingdom, owing to the various industries having labour organised either in Scotland or England.

NEW VICAR OF ST MARY’S, BERWICK

The Rev. Samuel Edward Raymond Fenning, Curate of Cwmdu, Glamorgan, has been presented by the Dean and Chapter of Durham to the Vicarage of St. Mary’s, Berwick, vacated by the Rev. H. F. H. Henderson. After studying in London, Mr Fenning was ordained deacon in 1911 and priest the following year. He first held a curacy at Cymmer with Porth (Glamorgan) from 1911-13, and in 1917 was appointed a Chaplain to the Territorial Forces, serving for two years. He is the proud possessor of the M.C. Mr Fenning is a distinctly popular cleric in the Cwmdu parish, and has manifested a keen interest in all parochial organisations.

The former St Mary’s church in Castlegate, now converted into flats, where the Rev. Samuel Edward Raymond Fenning was installed as vicar in June 1920.  And where Mr John Inglis served as an office-bearer. © Peter Bond, (CC BY-SA 2.0) https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0/

This has been a very poor week for the Tweed Salmon Net Fishings. The wind having changed from the seaward to the west, takes immediately took off. Trout and grilse are still very scarce and the retail price per lb. for salmon has risen to 3s 10d.

On Tuesday afternoon a 15-inch souvenir shell arrived in Berwick addressed to Councillor Dixon as Chairman of the Local War Savings Committee, as a gift from the National War Savings Committee for the Borough’s efforts during “Aeroplane” week. The shell, which weighed 11 cwt., was enclosed in a box and it took three Corporation employees to house it in the Butter Market.

NOTES FROM SPITTAL

Considerable interest is being taken in the new cinema show which has opened in the Spittal Hall. Formerly, when a cinema entertainment was held here, it was the mecca of visitors when weather conditions were not favourable for sitting out on the beach and prom.

Race Week brought a good many former residents back to the township from the Tyneside, and excellent weather favoured the invasion. There were also a few additional visitors arriving at the week-end from the Borders, and the beach had quite a summery appearance.

Mr Alf Rick has arrived with his troupe of Pierrots, and visitors are assured of a breezy open-air entertainment. Prior to the war, Mr Rick and his assistants succeeded in drawing crowds from Berwick in the evenings, and if the war has not killed the sense of humour, he should still succeed in doing so.

A. Johnson continued his winning career in fine style by securing the 1st three prizes in Spittal Homing Society’s 4th O.B. race from Oxford, 278 miles, on Saturday. Fifty birds competed in the race, and they were liberated at 8 a.m. by Mr V. Stone, light south-west wind. About ten birds arrived home together, and the result was as follows :- 1, 2 and 3, A. Johnson, 1283, 1275, 1274 yds. Per minute; 4th, A. Dixon, 1268; 5th H. Young, 1266. The 6d. and 2s “pools” and Secretary’s Nomination prize were won by A. Johnson. While the Spittal birds had the benefit of the breeze on Saturday, the Bournemouth Central H. S. birds, liberated at Spittal by A. Dixon at 6.5 a.m., did not arrive home until after 6 p.m. Saturday’s race will be from Longhoughton, ringing 1.15 to 1.45.

LOCAL NEWS

On Sunday last Mr and Mrs John Inglis, Cockburn’s Buildings, Berwick, celebrated their silver wedding, and were the recipients of presents and congratulations from a large circle of friends. Several relations travelled from a distance to be present on the happy occasion. Mr Inglis, who is the third son of the late Mr Peter Inglis, Berwick, was married in Bankhill Church to Miss Margaret Hall, second daughter of the late Mr Thomas Hall, foreman lorryman with Messrs Mutter Howey, by Mr McGregor, who was their minister, on 20th June 1895. “Jack” is well-known to all dealing in the cattle business, having followed the droving and transport of stock from his youth. During the last great railway strike he frequently took charge of large droves of cattle, proceeding by road to Newcastle and Haddington markets. He is also an office-bearer in the St. Mary’s Church. We trust the worthy couple will be spared to celebrate even yet another 25 years of married life.

“Walkies” – Part 3

The final part of the walk by Fearne the dog from Blyth!

These 1916 gun emplacements housed twin 6-inch guns to protect this vital location in both world wars, defending against coastal bombardment and beach invasion. After WW2 the guns were removed and filled in and adapted to form amenity shelters along the prom with seats under the canopies for visitors to use. 

These are photographs of two replica Mk V11 6 inch naval guns.  They were manufactured by M Fairington Engineers. A donation from Blyth Rotary Club helped with the installation and on 6 April 2019 they were unveiled by Col. Benjamin Speke Deputy Lieutenant of Northumberland. 

This 1916 shelter below was occupied by gun crews on duty and waiting for action at times when the Battery was at a high state of readiness.  The building had separate parts for the men, the officers and the Battery. Today this building is used as a small café and is run by a group of volunteers for the Blyth Battery. 

The 1916 building pictured below stored the shells and cartridges and was built beneath the sand dunes.  It has a reinforced roof with a protective blast void. The ready use stores up at the Gun Emplacements were replenished by moving ammunition from this reserve on trolleys, keeping the guns ready for fighting action at all times of the day and night. Today this building is a great museum, again ran by volunteers of the Blyth Battery. 

Well that just about ends my story and hope you enjoyed reading about these fascinating buildings. At present the Blyth Battery Museum is currently closed due to the Coronavirus , however when re-opened is well worth a visit.