The custom of taking a Grand Tour of Europe commenced in the 17th century but became popular in the 18th century and continued until the advent of rail travel in the 1840s. It began as an extended educational rite of passage, often taking place over two or more years, for young men of wealthy families. As time passed more and more women undertook the Grand Tour. The most important destinations on the Tour were Paris and the principal Italian cities of Florence, Naples, Rome and Venice. All were considered centres of antiquity, culture and fashion. Grand Tourists visited other cities en route, for example, Berlin, Vienna and Prague, often recording their impressions of these places too in their correspondence and journals.  

Itineraries would vary from tourist to tourist but a typical journey might start in Dover and involve travel to Calais. This was the route taken by John and Harriet Carr although they were advised by the banker, Sir Robert Herries, to take the alternative route of Brighton to Dieppe. Many tourists bought carriages in Calais. John and Harriet brought a family carriage to Europe but took the precaution of removing the family coat of arms prior to commencing their journey. The tourists might also engage a tutor or bear-leader in Calais as well as a French-speaking guide or cicerone and possibly servants. John and Harriet travelled to Europe with two family servants, Dolly and Stephen. John Carr had declined to take Stephen on his first Grand Tour of 1788-1790 writing in a letter of 7 June 1788 (ref: ZCE/F/1/1/1/66) ‘I have been under the necessity of hiring a servant accustomed to travelling upon the Continent, as Stephen would have been a very great incumbrance(sic) instead of being of any use’. Despite these reservations, both Dolly and Stephen appear to have proved to be of great assistance during the joint Tour. The tourist would then travel on to Paris and on through Switzerland where they would cross the Alps to Italy. This was often the most difficult part of the journey which had to be timed to allow for the Alpine crossing and often involved crossing the Mount Cenis Pass. Carriages were dismantled at the foot of the Pass and carried across by mules with tourists transported in sedan chairs. Once in Italy, the tourist was likely to visit Florence, Naples, Rome and Venice, with possible trips to Milan, Padua, Pisa and Verona.  

The Grand Tour was considered an educational experience for young people. They would visit sites of antiquarian interest improving their classical education and visit galleries and learn about great works of art. Some, like Harriet Carr, used the opportunity to practice and improve their artistic skills. Many used the opportunity to buy works of antiquity. There was a brisk market in these and in copies often passed off as originals. It was also an opportunity to widen social networks, both with fellow British tourists and with members of European societies. Letters of introduction allowed introductions to members of European societies and invitations to grand social events. The Tour also provided the opportunity for more worldy pursuits for some – drinking, gambling and intimate encounters. Europe also provided a refuge for those whose behaviour was considered unacceptable in Britain. One of the subjects of Harriet Carr’s portraits was Lady Emma Hamilton (1765-1815). Emma had gone to Naples in 1786 with Charles Grenville and then married Sir William Hamilton, British envoy to Naples, who was thirty five years her senior before commencing a relationship with Lord Horatio Nelson and having a daughter with him whilst still married to Sir William. 

The Grand Tour was not without perils. Travel could be difficult – carriage travel was uncomfortable and roads were poor. There was a threat of robbery – it was not wise to carry large amounts of cash. The climate could be harsh – very hot summers and very cold winters. The possibility of illness was high and healthcare was generally poor. Travel and associated costs were expensive. John and Harriet Carr expended £2910 on their Tour, equivalent to about £412,000 today. This was a relatively modest sum. It wasn’t uncommon for single Tourists to expend more than £5000 on their Tour. 

Many families with Northumberland connections undertook the Grand Tour and records that tell the stories of some of these Tours can be found within family and estate collections held by Northumberland Archives. Details of some of these records can be found in our catalogue – Home Page (northumberland.gov.uk). Examples of these records are: 

ZBL 188/239 Letters from William Blackett to Edward Blackett from his Grand Tour of Europe, 1784-1787. 

ZCR Box 13 Letters regarding journey to France by George Craster, 1770 

ZCR Box 20 Account books of Olive Craster regarding items bought in France and Spain and antiquities and curiosities bought in Naples, 18thc. 

ZMI/B52/1 Journal of Sir Charles Monck’s tour of Germany, Venice and Italy, 1804-1806. 

ZMI/B52/3/1-3 Journal of Sir Charles Monck’s tour of France and Italy, 1830-1831. 

ZMI/B52/4 Journal of Sir Charles Monck’s tour of Sicily, 1831. 

ZRI/30/7 Correspondence of Matthew White Ridley to his father from Berlin and Vienna, 1800. 

ZRI/32/5/1-2 Diaries of Matthew White Ridley’s travels in Germany and Italy, 1830. 

ZRW/62-65 Riddell family – journals and account book of expenses of a tour in Italy, 1770-1771. 

Bibliography 

Jeremy Black The Grand Tour In The Eighteenth Century (Alan Sutton 1992) 

Robin Gard The Observant Traveller (HMSO 1989)