History

BERWICK JOURNAL, 31ST JULY 1924

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NORHAM CASTLE HISTORY

At the annual summer outing of the Melrose Literary Society to Norham, the following paper on the position of Norham Castle in history and romance prepared by Mr J. E. Fairbairn was read in his absence by Mrs Drummond:-

The habit of this Society in selecting for its annual outing some place famous in literary annals has on this occasion again been amply justified and maintained, for today we meet mot only on the scene of one of the greatest and most stirring poems in the whole range of English literature, but on the banks of that river which had been such a fruitful source of inspiration for many a poet’s fancy. Throughout his life there was no river which appealed to Scott like the ever dear Tweed: he knew it in every aspect, it was his joy to ride its  most dangerous fords, to light its dark waters at night with the flame of the salmon lusterer, or to dream beneath a tree above its flowing waters, and on that memorable afternoon to the music of its ripple he fell asleep. It was only natural therefore that he should have selected the castled steep of Norham, flanked by the fine sweep of the river as the scene of his fresh and galloping poem of Marmion. Did it ever occur to you how I each of his three best known poems Scott weaves his story round some hoary castle on a romantic river bank. In “The Day” it is Newark and Yarrow, in “Marmion” Norham and Tweed, and in the “Lady of the Lake” the final scene occurs in Stirling on the Forth. Most of “Marmion” was composed on horseback, and the cantos ring with the sound of hoof and the jingling of bridle and spur. The preparation for the writing of “Marmion” began with his childhood’s years round the old tower of Smailholm when the love of martial tales was so early implanted in his breast and never ceased to grow until it reached its full maturity. While Scott found the inspiration of the poem in the old story of the feuds between the two Kingdoms with all its accompanying throng of gallant knights and ladies fair, he wove into the still older tale of love between man and maid, and it contains also a fine outburst of enthusiasm for his native city of Dunedin.

Norham Castle on the Tweed. Ref: BRO 515/178

Norham, as you can see, has been something more than an ordinary Border peel tower, and in the height of its glory must have been a place of great dimensions. With its double moat and strong fortifications, it looks as if it would be almost impregnable against attack, while its high and massive walls, even in their decay, are grim and forbidding and suggest defiance to all. This great fortress, set down as it were to over awe a Kingdom, was begun by Ralph Flambard, Bishop of Durham, in 1121, and was completed about 1170 under the succeeding Bishop, Hugh Pudsey, reminding us that in these early days the ecclesiastics, while members of the Church militant, took part also in another form of warfare. Its purpose was to ward off the turbulent and aggressive Scot of the North and was the great Border fortress in charge of the warlike Bishop of Durham. The river in broad volume washes on two sides of the high rock on which it stood in all its grandeur. Within the inner wall stood the massive square keep or donjon of Flambard Pudsey’s days, originally 95 feet in height, and still as a ruin not much less. Norham was the last point to the north of the province of Northumberland, and it eyed the opposite heights of Ladykirk and the Scottish Border with perfectly equipped defiance, and commands even today a view of the distant Lammermuirs to the north, and the triple peaks of the Eildons to the west. Round it cluster important movements in English and Scottish history from the time of King John to James IV. At the head of the island in the river is the ford where James was nearly carried away, and where he made the vow that issued in the building of Ladykirk. The importance of Norham ceased with the union of the Crowns in 1603, when its last Governor, Sir Robert Cary, rode from London to Holyrood in two days to hail James VI.  as Monarch of two Kingdoms. It still frowns across the Merse and carries us in thought back to the days of chivalry when the holding of its great sandstone keep was a gage of knightly honour.

Norham Castle, Harvest Time. Ref: BRO 515/179

Though day set long ago on the living glory of its castled steep the fame of the deeds done there in ancient days is not likely to be forgotten. Its walls still ooze history, and thanks to the genius of a master hand it rises again in all its ancient glory so that its denizens of former times become to us a living presence. Looking on its broken battlements as they yellow in the western blaze we are seeing it in that same golden glory under which Marmion sought its walls. In our mind’s eye we can still see that errant knight in all his panoply and pride come riding o’er the hill. We can still hear the steady tread of the warder on the turret high, and across the calm air of the evening there comes to us a snatch of that ancient Border gathering song. The form of the witching lady Ford still flits across the scene, bearing heavy on her soul the fate of Flodden Field, and with the wail for the Flowers o’ the Forest causing unrest to her spirit. The doughty King James, directing the destinies of battle looms large on Piper’s Hill, and under burden of a mental and more grievous weight than his ponderous iron belt. It is a far cry from Norham to the Scottish capital, but there still comes to us the news of battle ringing down its cobbled streets, and we see the haggard form of Randolph on his weary steed, the sole survivor of that mighty host which but a week before had gathered on the Burgh muir. It is pictures like these and many others that the once proud but now dismantled towers of Norham suggest and conjure up before us. The waters which wash its walls have flowed through a hundred scenes famous in history, renowned in romance, and garlanded with song, past many a roofless Border peel, and before the river loses itself in the bosom of the eternal sea it lingers for a while round this the last of the landmarks on her hundred miles of water way. Norham carries us back to the days of chivalry, and few castles of that period display more of their strength than this stronghold not only so, but that quality also shone, though in a fitful and a fading gleam across the ridge of Flodden.

Norham Castle, Evening. Ref: BRO 515/181

The massive ruin still keeps ward upon the Border side, and Castle and Church and village alike are full of reminiscences of history and romance. Hither in 1318 there came from Lincoln an actual Sir Wm. Marmion, helmed with gold, it is said, under pledge to win his lady love by defending Norham for a year and day. Alas, h however, for the gallant, for the Scots Borderers proved too warlike for him, and he lost his gage, his lady and his life in a single ambuscade. Here in May, 1291, Edward I met the Wardens of Scotland to arrange the succession to the Scottish crown, and thus sowed the seeds of the dire wars of Succession in the northern Kingdom. And it was on the green meadows opposite that in June of the same year the great nobles of Scotland, took upon the gospels, the oath of allegiance to the English King. But these and other actual historical events sink into comparative insignificance with the romantic episodes associated with Norham. In the Abbotsford gallery of fame the haughty crest of Marmion and the abiding love of Clare occupy honoured and important niches, and it is round them that there has been woven that story of glamour and romance which will enshroud the castled steep of Norham until the last day has set upon its battlements and towers.

BERWICK NEWSPAPERS

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BERWICK ADVERTISER, 3RD APRIL 1924

BERWICK NEW STATION

(FROM THE BERWICK DEBATING SOCIETY MAGAZINE)

Much ink has been spilt and hot air wasted over the necessity of having a new bridge over the river Tweed at Berwick, and while all are agreed that this proposal is of vital importance to the future development of the town, many differences of opinion are noted as to the location of the structure. The many expressions of interest in the scheme from all sections of the community is indeed gratifying and angers well for the future of the borough. This, however, regrettable that during all the discussions on the future welfare of the town, little or no comment has been made on the proposed new Railway Station at Berwick.

The front of Berwick Railway Station
An early 20th Century postcard of the front of the railway station

Rightly or wrongly, a traveller arriving at a town on his first visit, sizes up the importance of that town at the moment he steps off the train. It is, therefore, most essential that this ancient and prosperous Border town should have a railway station fitting the importance of the locality served. It will be agreed that the necessity of having a modern station at Berwick has been apparent for many years past. The low, dark platforms of inadequate length for modern through East Coast trains, the ill-lit waiting rooms and other conveniences, the acute curves whereby passenger trains entering the station from either direction are compelled to travel at a greatly reduced speed, and the “back street” entrance to the present structure do not give the town the status it deserves. The proposed alterations, is gratifying to note, will dispense with many of these very serios disabilities. Platforms are to be lengthened, extra waiting rooms introduced, and the acute curves minimised to such an extent that non-stopping trains will be able to pass Berwick at a much greater speed. No notice, however, appears to have been taken of the present station entrance, and no proposals have apparently been made whereby the new station will have the imposing main street entrance so essential to a railway station of first-class importance. Those of us who have visited Alnwick cannot fail to have noted the splendid railway station at that town. No necessity to enquire the way to the station at Alnwick, and no unsightly hoardings reminding us that “Boxo” puts a man on his feet, and that “Crushem” salts makes grandad an athlete of no mean ability. It is, of course, agreed that the proposals of the Railway Company are admirable so far as utility in railway working is concerned. Local trains will, it is understood, be started from a suitable platform for that class of train, thereby obviating the present method whereby passengers for different trains are frequently seen threading their way along narrow platforms among innumerable fish and luggage barrows.

Berwick Railway Station early 1900s. © Berwick Record Office – BRO 1636-10-013

Utility, however, from the viewpoint of the Railway Company is quite a different matter to the utility of the residents of the town served by the railway station. Representation should be made urging the necessity of having an entrance to the new station direct from the top of Castlegate. The plan obtaining at the present moment appears to be, a front street entrance to cattle docks, and a back passage entrance for the passengers. This order of things should, of course, be reversed in the new station. Another sore point to the artistic eye at Berwick Station is the disorderly array of shacks and huts of all descriptions which, in many cases, obstruct what would be one of the most beautiful views in this country. Some months ago, the writer was in conversation with a gentleman who had arrived at Berwick Station from the South at 4am on a beautiful summer morning. Glancing westwards from the train in crossing the Royal Border Bridge the sight that met his eye was the most gorgeous it was possible to imagine, and it was made clear from the traveller’s remarks and in all his travels which, by the way, extended to many countries, he had never experienced the thrill which he experienced on glancing up the silvery Tweed that morning. Now, Mr Editor, except from passing trains, how many of us have been privileged to view this most wonderful landscape. The placid silvery Tweed at high-tide, the surrounding country one mass of colour, away in the West can be seen the Eildon Hills and Hume Castle, while to the South, Cheviot and Hedgehope Mountains stand grim and forbidding. All this grandeur is. However, unfortunately obscured to the visitors at Berwick Station by an array of shacks built near the end of the Royal Border Bridge. In the building of the new station, it would be gratifying to know that these unsightly little buildings were to be removed with a view of leaving an unobstructed view of the river Tweed and surrounding country from the end of the platforms.

Royal Border Bridge early 1990s. Ref: BRO 515 377

Another anomaly in the present arrangements is the system whereby the exit from the goods warehouse and coal sidings also serves as the ordinary passenger exit from the station to the town, but this would, of course, be obviated if the Castlegate entrance were adopted.

Another very urgent reform necessary in the building of the new station at Berwick is the necessity of affording sufficient room for the standage of cars and taxis at the station entrance. At present the cars are obliged to line up any old how as near to the station portico as circumstances will permit, with the result that the turning of a car or taxi while foot passengers are passing to and from the station is a hair-raising thrill for the spectators who view the feat from a safe point of vantage. This, Mr Editor, is an antiquated and obsolete arrangement, suitable no doubt for ancient horse-drawn vehicles, but quite up safe for the present means of road transport using the railway station premises. In the new station we should therefore insist that the entrance from the town be made sufficiently wide to accommodate the large number of vehicles which meet all the East Coast express trains. Another item of importance, although not directly connected with the actual structure of the station, is the complete absence of a Sunday passenger train from Berwick to stations North. Can you name another town of equal importance so served, Mr Editor? Surely if towns like Kelso, Alnwick, and Hexham are worthy of a Sunday service, then, in an even greater degree, must out town need a service.

Another matter the visitor to our railway station must surely notice is the absence of train destination indicator boards on the platforms. The system adopted at Berwick, of lusty-lunged individuals bawling the destination or next stop of the train is, to say the least, reminiscent of the small wayside stations, and misleading when more than one train occupies the platforms.

I hold that the inhabitants of Berwick, who are justly proud of their town, should have a say in the very important work that is about to be undertaken at Berwick Station. Let us make it clear that any make-shift will not meet with our approval, and that our ancient town, which is one of the most famous on the great East Coast route, is well worthy of a railway station harmonising with the natural grandeur of the famous Borders.

BERWICK NEWSPAPERS

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BERWICK JOURNAL, 31ST JANUARY 1924

BERWICK TOWN COUNCIL

On Tuesday evening, after the Town Council meeting, Mr Ralph Skelly, aged 86, the oldest Freeman of the Borough, was presented privately with the gold-headed staff of office by the Mayor, in the presence of the Sheriff.

Mr Robertson, the esteemed and highly respected Sub-Postmaster at Horncliffe, is resigning after holding the post for a number of years. Mr Robertson is one of the oldest and best-known regular visitors to Berwick Market every Saturday.

Inquirer- The match between Celtic and Newcastle United was played in Berwick Cricket Field on March 13, 1902. The event was to celebrate the coming of age of the Rangers’ Club. Celtic won by 4 goals to 2.

Owing to scarcity of fish Holy Island fishermen have had to put in their creels and start crab and lobster fishing.

Holy Island, The Castle and the Ouse
Holy Island Castle and the Ouse

Messrs Jas. McDougle and Sons, Bamburgh, are appointed Berwick to Alnmouth Distributing Agents for Alladin Lamps.

Belford Hall is to be sold in March by Belford and District Farmers’ Auction Mart, Ltd., instructed by T. Place, Esq.

BERWICK CASTLE EXCAVATIONS

Following upon excavations at Water Tower, at river-side end of Western Flanking Wall of Berwick Castle, work has been proceeding at and near the Tower higher up, also on westside, which adjoins Western Wall before it begins to descend to Tweed. This Tower is the Buttress Tower, which was of great strength built probably about 1280, in Reign of Edward I., when Berwick Castle was made impregnable.

REF: BRO 426/37

Excavations at Water Tower have laid bare solid foundations, the facing stones, of which the upper part of the Tower is destitute, being of fine quality. A fair amount of work has been done on the Buttress Tower, a narrow trench some 2 feet deep having been dug round the wall. Nothing, however, has as yet been disclosed except the important fact that the original facing stones are still intact below the surface of the ground. Work is proceeding and some more men may be detailed to Berwick from Norham.

TWEEDMOUTH NOTES

In conversation with a railwayman, a few days ago, I was told of one particular instance of how motor cars are nibbling at traffic over which the railway held a complete monopoly since the Wooler Branch opened up. Traffic in rabbits, eggs, and other farm produce, was collected at all stations, large 5-ton vans being on the passenger trains for the purpose of conveying these food stuffs to southern markets. Those days are gone. A fleet of large motors visit the farms daily and collect what formerly had to be carted to the sometimes far-off stations and placed in the vans provided. The cars take full loads to Newcastle, and return with empty hampers, etc., much time and unnecessary labour being saved by the motor service now firmly established. The railway company in consequence has lost a fruitful source of revenue by the innovation, for where they used to carry hundreds of hampers weekly at one time, they scarcely carry dozens now.

Tweedmouth Burns’ Club Supper was held in the headquarters, Union Hotel, on Thursday night, 24th Jan.,  a day before the actual anniversary, this being to accommodate some who had a wish to attend other Club suppers, which were to be held on the 25th. There was an attendance of 60 members and friends, the spacious upstairs room being comfortably seated. The hour for starting was 6pm and by that time the room was showing signs of animation, while the savoury aroma floating upstairs told that the host and hostess, together with their staff of assistants, were doing their share. It may be safely stated that Tweedmouth Burns Club is keeping up its fine reputation, and maintaining its high standard of intellectual efficiency, whereby the annual gatherings are made a success.

THE NEW BRIDGE: A PETITION

The Mayor announced that he had just received a petition regarding the proposed new bridge, and he was of the opinion that the Council should send it to the Bridge Committee for consideration.

Coun. Dickinson seconded the Mayor’s motion that the matter be sent to the Bridge Committee and this was agreed upon.

The petition read as follows:

To His Worship the Mayor and the Members of the Town Council of Berwick -upon-Tweed.

The owners of property in and adjacent to the main throughfares leading from the Old Bridge through Bridge Street and Hide Hill and those conducting business in that district have become greatly concerned regarding the position involved by the construction of a new bridge, and recent reports of the County and Local Authorities have not dispelled the uncertainty prevailing in their minds.

View of Royal Border Bridge and The Old Bridge

So far us can be ascertained from the two routes which are now engaging the attention of the Town Council, both of which emerge directly into High Street, no provision is made for direct access to Bridge Street or its vicinity. Unless, therefore, the Old Bridge continues to be an inlet and outlet of traffic, the immediate effect of carrying out such a proposal would be the isolation of a large and important part of the town frm a great volume of traffic, and, in the opinion of the parties concerned, have the following results:-

  1. A loss of business now on the main route in that area.
  2. The depreciation of the value of the property therein.
  3. An increase in the cost of haulage and transit.

In view of such opinions those who are commercially and financially interested or otherwise connected with the question of the new bridge, so far as the south eastern area of the town in concerned, are desirous that these matters shall receive adequate considerate.

Informal, but representative meetings have been held to consider the position, but, at the suggestion of his Worship the Mayor, the parties who thus met, readily acquiesced in the view that the immediate moment is perhaps inauspicious for laying the whole of the facts before the public at large.

At such a meeting held on the 18th January, 1924 the situation was reviewed and it was unanimously resolved as follows: –

“That urgent representation be immediately made to the Town Council when considering the route of the new bridge to give earnest consideration to the special and peculiar position of the southeastern area of the Town of Berwick, and to preserve, as far as possible its present trade facilities so as to mitigate any hardship which might be inflicted upon those connected with this area.” (signed,) J.W. Blench, Chairman. H.M. Young, Secretary.

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